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To the frustration of many bakers, the rustic good looks, coarse porous texture, and crisp, chewy crusts of many breads sold in Italian and French bakeries seem difficult to reproduce at home.
We think this is a solution to producing bread like that in the bakeries of Italy and France. Duplicate two traditional country breads, pane francese (Italian for French bread) and French bread started with biga (an overnight "sponge," which gives the bread a slightly tangy flavor, depending on fermentation time). In many bread recipes, dough is kneaded until it is no longer sticky and easy to handle, holds its shape when baked, and boasts a fine, even texture. The secret to these breads is wet dough and a hot oven, which yield flatter, crisp loaves. To begin, you mix and knead the dough in a food processor or bowl (if you like a more porous texture or are mixing the dough by hand, add a little more water). To prevent sticking when handling the wet mass with your hands, coat dough and board with lots of flour; very little actually goes into the gently worked dough. After shaping the loaves, let them rest, then transfer them to baking sheets, stretching them slightly in the process. This step also adds texture, elongating the air cells in the bread.
These breads taste best freshly baked. If you hold them more than 8 hours, wrap and freeze. Thaw and reheat, uncovered, in a 350º oven just until warm, 5 to 10 minutes.
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French Bread (Pane Francese)
1 envelope active dry yeast |
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In a small bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the 1/4-cup warm water. Let the mixture stand until it starts to bubble, about 10 minutes.
If using a food processor, mix 3 cups flour, sugar, and salt. With the processor running, add the yeast mixture and gradually pour in I cup of ice-cold water. Process, scraping bowl occasionally, until flour and water are incorporated (if dough is dry or difficult to whirl, add more water, 1 to 2 teaspoons at a time). Whirl dough until shiny, elastic, and slightly sticky, 3 to 4 minutes (if machine stops, wait a few minutes for motor to cool, then resume, or transfer to a bowl and beat by hand). To test for elasticity, stretch apart a small piece of dough with your hands; if it forms a thin skin you can see through, the dough is ready. Sprinkle dough with about 2 tablespoons flour to make it easier to handle. Scrape the soupy dough into a large bowl. If using an electric mixer and dough hook or mixing by hand, mix 3 cups flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Add yeast mixture and 1 cup of the cold water. Beat on medium speed or with a heavy spoon until well blended. Change to a dough hook on a mixer or use a heavy spoon. Beat until dough is shiny, elastic, and slightly sticky, about 5 minutes with mixer, 10 to 20 minutes by hand (if the dough is dry or difficult to beat, add more water, 1 to 2 teaspoons at a time). To test elasticity, stretch apart a small piece of dough with your hands; if it forms a thin skin you can see through, the dough is ready. Let dough rise, covered with plastic wrap, in a warm place until it doubles in size, 1-1/2 to 2 hours. To shape the loaves, sprinkle about 2 tablespoons flour over dough and scrape out onto a well-floured board. Divide the dough in half. With floured hands, lightly pat each portion of dough into a 7 by 8-inch rectangle. Starting on a short side, roll dough jellyroll fashion (step 2 below); with each turn of the roll, press rolled edge against unrolled portion with heel of hand (step 3). Repeat, pressing the last exposed side to loaf. Place loaves on board, seam side down. Sprinkle flour generously under loaves and lightly over top. Let loaves rest, lightly covered with plastic wrap, on the board for 30 minutes. Carefully pick up ends of each loaf and transfer to a greased or cooking parchment-lined 14 by 17-inch baking sheet, stretching each loaf to a length of 12 to 14-inches in the move (if loaf sticks to board, gently scrape free with a spatula). Place loaves 4 to 5-inches apart. Cover loosely with plastic wrap; let rise in a warm place until loaves are slightly puffy, 10 to 15 minutes. Place in a 475º oven, then immediately turn heat down to 425º. Bake until golden brown all over, 20 to 30 minutes. For a crisper crust, turn oven off, prop oven door ajar slightly, and leave loaves in oven for about 10 minutes.
Remove from pans and cool on racks. Makes 2 loaves, each about 11 ounces.
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French Bread with Sponge
Biga (recipe follows) |
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If using a food processor, mix the biga and salt. Add 1/4 cup cold water and whirl until shiny and smooth, about 30 seconds. Add 1-1/4 cups flour, 1/4 cup at a time, pulsing 3 or 4 times after each addition. If dough is too dry to incorporate flour, add more water 1 to 2 teaspoons at a time, whirling until water is blended. Then process until dough is shiny, elastic, and slightly sticky, 1 to 2 minutes (if machine stops, wait a few minutes for motor to cool, then continue, or transfer to a bowl and beat by hand). To test elasticity, stretch apart a small piece of dough with your hands; if it forms a thin skin you can see through, the dough is ready.
If using a dough hook or mixing by hand, place the biga and salt in a large bowl; stir to mix. Add 1/4 cup cold water and beat at medium speed or with a heavy spoon until well blended. Add 1-1/4 cups flour, 1/4 cup at a time, beating well after each addition. If dough is too dry to incorporate flour, add more water 1 to 2 teaspoons at a time, beating until blended and dough is shiny, elastic, and slightly sticky, about 5 minutes, with a dough hook, 20 to 25 minutes by hand. To test elasticity, stretch apart a small piece of dough with your hands; if it forms a thin skin that you can see through, the dough is ready. Let rise, shape, and bake loaves as directed for French bread (preceding). Makes 2 loaves, each 9 to 10 ounces.
Biga. In a 2- to 3-quart bowl, soften I teaspoon active dry yeast in 1-1/8 cups warm water (110º), about 5 minutes. Gradually add 2 cups all-purpose flour; stir the mixture until smooth. Cover and let stand in a warm place at least 8 hours or up until the next day.
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